Valle dell’Acate
Gaetana Jacono
The Valle dell’Acate winery and vineyards are located in South Eastern Sicily in the Acate commune within the province of Ragusa. Even more specifically, their vines grow in the Contrade of Bidini Soprana and Sottana. They bottle under the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and the Vittoria DOC, which are actually denominations that occupy the same territory–the difference between the two is in their production and grape variety restrictions.
At the end of the 19th c, Vittoria was the epicenter of Sicilian wine exports. The Jacono family has made wine in this area since that time until now, 6 generations. Currently, they focus on the native Sicilian varieties of Grillo, Inzolia, Nero d’Avola, a small planting of Chardonnay, and the most ancient of the bunch, Frappato. While wines from Vittoria were beloved amongst the French in the late 19th c., it is with these more recent generations that wines from this area have gained true international notoriety.
In the 21st century, the Sicilian wine industry embarked on a revolution. The Sicilia DOC formed only in 2011, but has since then successfully promoted the wines of Sicily to pop up on everyone’s radar. The Consorzio di Tutela Vini Doc Sicilia, formed in 2012, but in association with the Sicilia DOC to regulate production, have committed to quality wine as well as pushed for major investments in native grape research for the island. Gone are the days of mass produced, bulk wines for export and indigenous vines ripped up in favor of Merlot and Cabernet. We now look to Sicily as a pioneer in quality Italian wines that speak of territory. Gaetana Jacono and Valle dell’Acate are no exception, as she has carefully and intentionally positioned herself and the winery as spokeswomen for elevated Sicilian wines that portray territory. She further pushed the winery to international recognition, with her visions of bottling Vittoria wines made from single contrade and vineyards. She firmly believes that these wines can be cellared and aged earning them a place in the wine world with other premium bottlings.
The vineyards are located in a splendid area of south-eastern Sicily, characterized by a hot and dry climate, mitigated by the presence of the sea breezes. The vines reach up to 250m asl, and the proximity to the ocean truly brings down the evening temperatures. The estate is certified organic and goes beyond to incorporate more regimented sustainable practices (such as careful monitoring of energy waste in the cellar). Under Gaetana, Valle dell’Acate has invested in zoning work, which investigates soil structures and types. The excavations and analysis uncovered 7 different soil types in her vineyards:
TERRA GIALLA (YELLOW EARTH): Along the coast, in Contrade Biddine Soprana and Biddine Sottana, with sandy-clay soils that have a certain yellow hue.The earth is not so compact, and the sand allows for good drainage. Here they produce Zagra, their Grillo bottling.
TERRA BIANCA (WHITE EARTH): A small area in the higher elevation zones of Contrada Biddine Soprana at 250m asl. With more calcareous soils, very poor in organic matter (this is a good thing for grape vines!), this terrain naturally curbs the production of grapes, concentrating the vines’ efforts into fewer grappoli (grape bunches). Here they produce Bidis, which is actually a chardonnay bottling. They also grow some of their Inzolia vines here.
TERRA NERA CON CIOTTOLI DI COLORE BIANCO (BLACK EARTH with WHITE PEBBLES-rocky): The vines here grow at about 100 meters asl in both the Biddine Soprana and Biddine Sottana Contrade. The earth is dark, compact, with smooth, small white rocks. The rocks in the soil allow for good oxygenation of the soils and the roots are able extend down great depths. Here they produce their Vittoria DOC Frappato. The wine is a fuller bodied expression of Frappato, but still with those fresh and pure aromatics of violets, roses, and raspberries, and bright acid.
TERRA ROSSA (RED EARTH): Higher elevation plots in Biddine Soprana composed of sand, iron and clay. Both Frappato and Nero d’avold grow here, with the Frappato closer to the coast where the solid is a little lighter and sander. They bottle their Cerasuolo di Vittoria (60% Nero d’Avola, 40% Frappato) from this vineyard.
TERRA NERA (BLACK EARTH): Around 120m asl in both Contrade Biddine Soprana and Biddine Sottana, chracterized by very dark soil, almost black and more compact with small dark stones. From here they produce their Il Moro Nero d’Avola, which is well structured and darker fruited.
TERRA ROSSO ARANCIO (RED ORANGE EARTH): In the higher elevation plots of Biddine Soprana around 200m asl. Sandy, iron soils that tend to create wines of great structure and complexity. Here they bottle their single vineyard bottling of Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG.
TERRA OCRA (RED-YELLOW EARTH : in Contrada Biddine Soprana. Clay and sandy soils that provide good drainage. Here they believe the Nero d’Avola grape grows best. The plants produce no more than 800g of grape each, so production is naturally curbed. They produce their Tané label from these vines.
Thanks to a deep knowledge of the nuances of the territory, Valle dell’Acate is able to offer a range of labels with great personality, with versions of Frappato and Cerasuolo di Vittoria among the best ever. Many bottles are the fruit of a single contrada and vineyard, capable of expressing a unique and peculiar character. The winery is engaged in a redevelopment of the entire territory, with particular attention to the environmental ecosystem and biodiversity.
